We awoke to dark overcast skies. After the typical Italian hotel breakfast of a croissant and coffee, we just hung out in the lobby waiting, waiting for the clouds to disperse. At last, Mauny thought it good enough to take a chance. So we made our way to our next destination, which is on the map of many wine enthusiasts...Montepulcino. The road was not spectacular, but there was not much traffic, for which we are always thankful. As usual, a grueling ascent to this hill town. Upon entering the gates, a car stopped dead in front of us and Mauny drew a crowd (and Elaine got a push) by shouting "Allez, allez, Tour de France!". Everyone was laughing. The information office was closed and it was a Saturday. We have found this often in Italy. So one of us would go off in search of a hotel, while the other watched the bike. I think we got the last room in the town (and these always seem to be on the 4th floor for us) at a hefty price, which we were forewarned about in our travel books. So we just bit the bullet. We were in a suite, community rooms of which we shared with other renters. This included a kitchen, tv, etc, so we were able to prepare our dinner there. Unlike most people who visit Italy, we have not been experiencing the good food and wine as much as we would like to save money. While unpacking, there was some kind of parade going on out on the plazza with colorful flag tossing. Mauny was able to get a pix. It was a cold night, so we walked outside only briefly before retiring.
The next morning after our Italian hotel breakfast, we walked around Montelpulcino and sampled some of the fine cheese, bread and wine, and saw alot of old buildings on steep streets.
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
October 1st-October 3rd, Onward from Orvieto.
We have arrived in Sienna yesterday. We will cover our adveture in Orvieto, Pitigliano, Celle S. Rogo. All are in Tuscany. We will track back to where we left off at our last post:
10-01-08 ORVIETO TO PITIGLIANO - 61.4 km
Today we entered Toscany, leaving Umbria behind. We woke up at 7:30 and started packing our bags. The bike was chained to a door at the lobby, and our bags were three floors up. We packed the tiny elevator twice to get all our stuff down. At 8 am, the head nun came by (after prayers) to check us out. We rode into the center of town - two blocks - to the local Bar for coffee. We had our cereal earlier at our room. It is hard to find a good American breakfast in Italy, so when we can we buy milk, eggs, cereal, etc., and prepare the meals in our room with our little camping stove, and mess kit.
We had planned an easy exit out of town, but soon discovered that the road was leading in the wrong direction ( have't we been here before?). The correction added what seems our customary daily 10km "error penalty".
What causes all this is the fact that the roads aren't properly marked. If the map has a road number, the signs don't, or visaversa. Mauny selceted what looked like a quiet road out of town. When we fianlly got there we found ourselves having the steepest climb yet! We were climbing for over 4km on grades that had to be more then 10%. With the loaded bike, we once started pedaling after a short stop, and the wheel actually spun below us. I, for a moment thoght we broke the hub...
So, on a couple of occasions we walked the bike for 10 minutes which proved just as difficult. Once on top of the mountain, we actually had a fun ride in great weather. The descent down to Lake Bolsena was as pretty as it gets. We had a flat ride along the lake, and enjoyed some of the landscape Toscany is known for - vineyards, olive groves, and small pretty farms. We later ascended to the town of Gradioli where we had a coffee break at the local Bar. Two Italian cyclists stopped by to gulp a coppa'. We had a chat with people at a table next to ours. They were curious about our trip, and wished us a "bon voyage". At 4:30 we spotted a B&B and decided to check in. We left our bags in the room - at ground level this time around - and rode into town light, and fast. Pitigliano is a true charm. It is like a three dimensional scuplture of Escher paintings. We just loved it! There is an old synagogue there which is open to visitors. We bought chocolate covered mazza to take to our room. Back later in the evening, we bought groceries at the local Coop, and discovered that there was a big winery right next door. Tractors upon tractors where lumbering up the hills to enter the winery with white, and red grapes. After hours, they just park in front of the gate for the night. We are still looking for peanut butter, but no dice. We found baked chicken, and ate it with fresh salad, and mashed potatoes in ur room.
10-2-08
We initially intended to leave today, but after reading more about this area, we changed our minds. We will stay another day so that we could hike the ancient cave paths, as they are called here. These pathways were carved by the Etruscans BC. They were later expanded by inhabitants from the Middle Ages. Today, you can hike there with walls rising above you on each side. The area is thickly forested, and at this time we saw cyclemens in bloom everywhere. There are small streams flowing form all directions, and here and there you get a glimps of parts of this hill town. We wre glad to have decided to stay the day!
10-3-08, PITGILIAMO TO CELLE S. Rigo, 57K
After breakfast, we saddled up and went to the local coffee shop for the usual lfare. The weather forecast called for rain in the afternoon. Regardless, we went to visit the town of Sovana, which is quaint and pretty, and warranted about an hour. We then went back up the hill and made our way through Sorano, which we were greatly suprised by both the ride and the amazing cliff side position of the town. We rode up and down through beautiful tufa canyons. Saw bikers going the other way. After town, an ascent as the weather began to thicken and the wind began to blow somewhat. We spotted a tiny town on the map...Celle sul Rigo...would we find shelter there. We made it up the grueling ascent just in time..to a hotel with a young entreprenuer who had only one hotel thus far in his hote. After settling in, we walked through the tiny village, and had pizza at the local bakery before playing cards in the lobby at night, watching the local men coming and going in and out of the rain from the street to the bar. We felt that again we had outsmarted the weather.....
10-01-08 ORVIETO TO PITIGLIANO - 61.4 km
Today we entered Toscany, leaving Umbria behind. We woke up at 7:30 and started packing our bags. The bike was chained to a door at the lobby, and our bags were three floors up. We packed the tiny elevator twice to get all our stuff down. At 8 am, the head nun came by (after prayers) to check us out. We rode into the center of town - two blocks - to the local Bar for coffee. We had our cereal earlier at our room. It is hard to find a good American breakfast in Italy, so when we can we buy milk, eggs, cereal, etc., and prepare the meals in our room with our little camping stove, and mess kit.
We had planned an easy exit out of town, but soon discovered that the road was leading in the wrong direction ( have't we been here before?). The correction added what seems our customary daily 10km "error penalty".
What causes all this is the fact that the roads aren't properly marked. If the map has a road number, the signs don't, or visaversa. Mauny selceted what looked like a quiet road out of town. When we fianlly got there we found ourselves having the steepest climb yet! We were climbing for over 4km on grades that had to be more then 10%. With the loaded bike, we once started pedaling after a short stop, and the wheel actually spun below us. I, for a moment thoght we broke the hub...
So, on a couple of occasions we walked the bike for 10 minutes which proved just as difficult. Once on top of the mountain, we actually had a fun ride in great weather. The descent down to Lake Bolsena was as pretty as it gets. We had a flat ride along the lake, and enjoyed some of the landscape Toscany is known for - vineyards, olive groves, and small pretty farms. We later ascended to the town of Gradioli where we had a coffee break at the local Bar. Two Italian cyclists stopped by to gulp a coppa'. We had a chat with people at a table next to ours. They were curious about our trip, and wished us a "bon voyage". At 4:30 we spotted a B&B and decided to check in. We left our bags in the room - at ground level this time around - and rode into town light, and fast. Pitigliano is a true charm. It is like a three dimensional scuplture of Escher paintings. We just loved it! There is an old synagogue there which is open to visitors. We bought chocolate covered mazza to take to our room. Back later in the evening, we bought groceries at the local Coop, and discovered that there was a big winery right next door. Tractors upon tractors where lumbering up the hills to enter the winery with white, and red grapes. After hours, they just park in front of the gate for the night. We are still looking for peanut butter, but no dice. We found baked chicken, and ate it with fresh salad, and mashed potatoes in ur room.
10-2-08
We initially intended to leave today, but after reading more about this area, we changed our minds. We will stay another day so that we could hike the ancient cave paths, as they are called here. These pathways were carved by the Etruscans BC. They were later expanded by inhabitants from the Middle Ages. Today, you can hike there with walls rising above you on each side. The area is thickly forested, and at this time we saw cyclemens in bloom everywhere. There are small streams flowing form all directions, and here and there you get a glimps of parts of this hill town. We wre glad to have decided to stay the day!
10-3-08, PITGILIAMO TO CELLE S. Rigo, 57K
After breakfast, we saddled up and went to the local coffee shop for the usual lfare. The weather forecast called for rain in the afternoon. Regardless, we went to visit the town of Sovana, which is quaint and pretty, and warranted about an hour. We then went back up the hill and made our way through Sorano, which we were greatly suprised by both the ride and the amazing cliff side position of the town. We rode up and down through beautiful tufa canyons. Saw bikers going the other way. After town, an ascent as the weather began to thicken and the wind began to blow somewhat. We spotted a tiny town on the map...Celle sul Rigo...would we find shelter there. We made it up the grueling ascent just in time..to a hotel with a young entreprenuer who had only one hotel thus far in his hote. After settling in, we walked through the tiny village, and had pizza at the local bakery before playing cards in the lobby at night, watching the local men coming and going in and out of the rain from the street to the bar. We felt that again we had outsmarted the weather.....
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