SUMMARY OF OUR SIX WEEK SELF SUPPORTED RIDE

We visited Italy for nearly three months. We rode on our Santana Sovereign tandem fitted with S & S couplings for six weeks none stop, carrying four panniers, small backpacks, and fully self supported. Our bike and panniers weighed 75 Kg. On a daily basis there were a few extra pounds with water, and food for each day. The above doesn't include our body weight (that is a secret...).

The idea to cycle in Italy was born about a year before, and seemed a monumental task. We had no idea where to gather information, or how to even begin. We have been cycling for many years, using panniers, camping for several days at a time. Mauny had crossed the entire USA on a bike, yet still - a foreign country? Shipping everything? Disassembling? There were so many 'what-ifs'.

We were concerned with road condition, driver behavior, places to stay, food, what to wear in regard to weather, how to minimize on the weight, etc. We first looked at a general map of Italy to identify places of interest. A trip to the book store, a chat at the bike shop, a talk with riders we met while training (amazingly, so many have been to Italy), a surf on the Internet. Each added more to our initial knowledge. We were encouraged by the information we received. To narrow down our preferred roads we bought a semi-detailed Michelin map. We also found a Backroads brochure which we used to confirm some of the places we were interested in. Even though the itineraries were described in a rather general way, it helped us get some idea of where tour operators cycled.

We later discovered a Lonely Planet guide to cycling in Italy. Though helpful, the information there was for itineraries of 4 to 6 days with train/bus hops to and from. Since our trip was much longer, we were challenged with connecting the dots. After a few weeks of head scratching we laid out a continuous route.

Our plan was to start in Venice, work our way south through the Po Delta along the Adriatic until Rimini. We then would cut into the hills of La Marche, and Umbria working our way south into Tuscany. Once past Lake Bolsena, we would cut northward toward Siena, and finally arrive in Florence. Florence was our final planned destination. From there we made no solid plans to continue riding in any particular direction. We decided to see what the weather would be at the end of October, and then decide where to go. We definitely planned on visiting other places by train, and on foot.

Our time in Italy started at the end of the first week of September, and ended in the third week of November. If we were to describe our trip in Italy we would summarize it as beautiful, and full of surprises - some pleasant; others not so pleasant - but what is an adventure without a mix of experiences?

The not so pleasant experiences were solely disappointments, we soon overcame. For example, we didn't know the weather could turn cold in a very short time. We didn't know Italian businesses closed in mid day. We didn't know the roads weren't always marked properly. In contrast, we didn't know how beautiful the country would be. We didn't know how friendly the Italians would be. We didn't know we would eat tasty meals, and drink good wine. We had no idea one couldn't get a bad cup of coffee. And there is so more. Despite the physical challenges of being exposed to the elements, having to climb steep grades, and descend dangerous switch backs, we were always rewarded with a worthwhile experience.

A common denominator on our trip was that everything was "up". We were interested in hill towns, so at end of each day there was this final steep climb into a town. Once we arrived, there was another steep climb to our room as in most cases our room ended up on the second or third floor to where we had to lug our 6o + lbs of equipment.

Our main disappointment was that most campgrounds closed for business after the first week of September. This truly impeded on our budget. Luckily we did find numerous campgrounds operating year round, or into November, and we were able to find reasonably priced hotels, B & B's, and hostels. Also, prior to the trip we joined Servas, an international organization promoting cross-cultural experience through a host and traveller network. We would encourage every traveller to join Servas, even if they end up staying in hotels. We are beholding to our Servas hosts for not only great friendships and good accomodations, but also for providing us with local knowledge that saved us hours of time and great frustration.

We also experienced a certain lack of important information in both our Lonely Planet Cycling Guide, and the Michelin map. When you ride a bike all day, names of places must be supported with details marked on a comprehensive map. Mentioning where to start a ride, but not showing detail on how to get there doesn't make a cyclist happy. In most cases the book did not mention that a campground wasn't operating past August. At the end of a hard ride, a cyclist expects not to incur extra miles in search of a place to stay, or eat. The book also gave information that wasn't possible to verify in the field; names that meant nothing to help us get to a recommended place. This pertained to road signs, names of towns, or locations of hotels. We always found many more, cheaper, and better hotels not mentioned in the book.

We must also slap the wrist of the planners of the Michelin map. We realize that not all towns can be marked on even a detailed map. However, why is it that the towns that Michelin chose to indicate on the map were not the ones posted on road signs, and intersections? This fact alone caused us many extra frustrating miles. We were relieved when we switched to the Italian Touring Club Guide maps. We highly recommend these maps to any one contemplating a trip. They are available in most book stores around the country.

If Lonely Planet wanted to print a small book in order to save on weight, and volume I would say, bull! One still is compelled to carry adequate additional information. Why then not include this in a book?

We don't want to bash Lonely Planet to a pulp. Not at all. All in all, the Lonely Planet book was to us a crucial tool, and an important guide without which we still wouldn't be able to finalize, and carry out our plan. Despite the discrepancies, it supplied us with much much valuable information. We have seen a few guide books for cyclists in Italy, and in the US. In these cases the mapping, and cue sheets were superbly done. I recall a cycling book I had used for the Washington DC area that missed nothing in giving cyclists the best information on each ride with details on how to get to the starting point, and how to navigate through it, but enough said. We would still like to thank the people who took the time to publish material on the subject.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:

We packed our bike in two Dahon Airporter suitcases. Our 700 wheels needed to be deflated, and fit in an angle on top of each box. With padding, securing the parts with zip ties, the bike made it both ways without damage. We never paid extra charges for size, or weight. Our weight limit was never exceeded. The Dahon suitcase looks just like a regular suitcase, and only a couple of inches longer than the limit. We also put all our other equipment into two military duffle bags. We carried a folding dolly on which we piled up the duffle bags. Still, we never exceeded the weight limit. During transport, we rolled a suitcase each, and took turns pulling the dolly. It isn't easy, but it is doable.